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tin_boat [2026/08/05 16:31] – created donaldtin_boat [2026/08/05 20:20] (current) donald
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   * Spark plugs are Champion QL77JC4 or NGK BPR7HS. Gap: 0.030"   * Spark plugs are Champion QL77JC4 or NGK BPR7HS. Gap: 0.030"
  
-J10RCOM+===== J10RCOM ===== 
 <code>Johnson Model: J10RC0M (or J10RCOM) <code>Johnson Model: J10RC0M (or J10RCOM)
  
 Year Determination Year Determination
-The model J10RC0M / J10RCOM does not follow the cleanest form of the standard INTRODUCES year code, which makes an exact year slightly less straightforward.+The model J10RC0M / J10RCOM does not follow the cleanest form of the standard INTRODUCES year code,  
 +which makes an exact year slightly less straightforward.
  
 However, based on very similar models in the Johnson parts catalogs (especially J10RC series): However, based on very similar models in the Johnson parts catalogs (especially J10RC series):
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 </code> </code>
  
 +===== Testing the coil =====
  
  
 +<code>
 +Outboard Ignition Coil Testing  
 +(For Johnson / Evinrude 9.9–15 HP and similar 2-stroke motors)
 +
 +You can test the ignition coils with a basic digital multimeter (ohmmeter). Here’s the practical procedure.
 +
 +Tools Needed
 +Digital multimeter set to Ohms (Ω)
 +Spark plug wire pliers or needle-nose pliers
 +Clean rag
 +
 +Safety First
 +Disconnect the battery (if equipped) or remove the spark plug wires.
 +Make sure the engine is not running and the kill switch is in the OFF position.
 +
 +1. Primary Winding Test (Low Resistance)
 +
 +Disconnect the small primary wire(s) from the coil (usually a single spade terminal).
 +Set the multimeter to a low ohms scale (200 Ω or auto-ranging).
 +Touch one probe to the primary terminal.
 +Touch the other probe to a good engine ground (or the coil’s metal mounting tab/core).
 +
 +Expected reading (typical for these motors):
 +0.1 – 1.5 ohms** (most common range is 0.5 – 1.0 Ω)
 +
 +Reading of 0 or very close to 0 → shorted primary → bad coil  
 +Reading of OL (infinite) → open primary → bad coil
 +
 +2. Secondary Winding Test (High Resistance)
 +
 +Keep the primary wire disconnected.
 +Set the multimeter to a higher ohms scale (20kΩ / 20,000 Ω).
 +Place one probe on the primary terminal.
 +Place the other probe inside the spark plug boot (touching the metal terminal).
 +
 +Expected reading:
 +3,000 – 8,000 ohms** (3k – 8k Ω) is common on many older Johnson coils  
 +Some models fall in the 225 – 350 ohms range (especially later CD ignition coils)
 +
 +Outside this range or OL → bad secondary winding → replace the coil
 +
 +3. Short-to-Ground Test
 +One probe on the primary terminal  
 +Other probe on the metal core/laminations of the coil  
 +Should show OL (no continuity). Any reading means the coil is shorted to ground.
 +
 +Quick Tips for Your Motor
 +On 9.9/10 HP Johnsons of this era, the coils are usually mounted under the flywheel on the magneto plate.
 +Always test both coils (most of these motors have two).
 +A coil can pass the resistance test and still be weak under load. The best final check is a spark tester 
 +(in-line or gap-style) while cranking.
 +
 +Would you like the typical resistance values specifically for the charge coil / stator as well 
 +(common cause of no-spark on these motors)?
 +</code>
  
tin_boat.1785947488.txt.gz · Last modified: 2026/08/05 16:31 by donald